Le Kimono - Ou quand l'art se porte

Soie piquée, couleurs chatoyantes, parures ourlées, étoffes plissées… Notre imagination cavale à l'énumération de ces qualificatifs délicats. À toutes les époques, et dans toutes les sociétés, le statut social s'inscrit sur soi. Le vêtement est une présentation, une carte d'identité qui n'a pas de secret pour tous ceux qui font partie du cercle. Et la noblesse nippone manifeste aussi son appartenance sociale à travers son habillement.


Tout commence pendant la période Heian. Une conscience nationale nippone apparaît. Les Japonais désirent se démarquer de la culture chinoise qui a longtemps codifié leur mode de vie et de pensée. La cour se passionne pour la musique et la danse et tente de se créer une identité. L'apparence compte beaucoup, et les riches courtisans souhaitent rivaliser d'élégance. Les étoffes sont de plus en plus riches, les couleurs se multiplient mais surtout, la quantité de tissu portée est impressionnante. Les femmes ne revêtent pas moins d'une douzaine de robes, et les dégradés de couleurs obéissent à des règles très strictes.
Mais à la période suivante - Kamakura, marquée par l'avènement des samouraïs - Minamoto Yoritomo* accède au pouvoir et prône l'austérité. Toutes les robes sont délaissées et les femmes se mettent à parader dans une robe portée à l'origine à même la peau : le « kosode ». Ce « maillot de corps » est l'ancêtre du kimono puisqu'il n'a jamais été abandonné depuis cette époque.


© www.electricedge.com

Le kosode change cependant de forme au cours des périodes suivantes. Blanc au départ, il se pare de couleurs multiples. Les nouvelles méthodes de teinture permettent d'agrémenter le costume de motifs toujours plus créatifs. Enfin, les manches « courtes » (Ko) s'allongent et selon leur longueur, révèlent le statut de la femme qui les porte.


© D.R.

Aujourd'hui, le terme « kimono » n'évoque pas la même chose pour tous. Les pratiquants d'arts martiaux imaginent une tenue de combat en coton épais, ceinturée fortement à la taille. Les femmes occidentales rêvent d'une jolie robe de chambre en soie, dissimulant une lingerie affriolante. Enfin, un public plus averti perçoit un habit riche en couleurs, paré des plus beaux motifs et aux manches sans fin. Le kimono est toutes ces formes à la fois. Il est « ce qui se vêt » (de « Ki » : vêtir et « Mono » : chose) et désigne tous les habits masculins et féminins. Plus précisément, le kimono se définit par opposition à tous les vêtements importés. Il désigne principalement les habits traditionnels ayant une coupe large d'une seule pièce et en forme de T. Le costume doit être ouvert devant, et croisé pan gauche sur pan droit, maintenu par une large ceinture, le Obi, lui-même maintenu par un cordon, le Obijime.


© wikimedia CC

À première vue, l'habit est un simple morceau de tissu sans forme, sans ajout. Il n'est pas tellement attrayant. Sophie Milenovich avoue dans son ouvrage Kimonos : "De même que tous les vêtements ethniques à la construction simple, je n'avais fait que survoler le sujet, pensant sans doute qu'il n'y avait rien à chercher derrière cette coupe dénuée de complexité".
En effet, la coupe est simple, les formes basiques. Mais, de façon incroyable, le kimono ne révèle toute sa splendeur qu'une fois porté. La complexité de l'habillage est la signature de ce vêtement unique. Comme l'origami réalisé avec une feuille de papier carrée, celle-ci étant pliée un nombre précis de fois pour révéler une grue ou un aigle aux ailes démesurées, l'habillage est un pliage. À partir de cette simple bande de tissu, la femme plie autour d'elle. Plus incroyable encore, elle ne soumet pas le tissu à son corps, car son corps doit mettre en valeur le kimono. Le vêtement est devenu un art auquel l'homme se soumet. Le kimono n'est pas un simple vêtement. Il est la manifestation de l'art, de l'esthétisme japonais. Il est une philosophie, celle d'une humanité qui a des codes et des principes mais qui sait s'effacer devant la Beauté.

Noah

* Minamoto Yoritomo est le tout premier Shogun de l'histoire du Japon. Le titre, qui signifie approximativement le « généralissime », revient au chef suprême de la caste militaire des guerriers.


© lomkitomb.apinc.org

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