Chronique d'un voyage au Japon (2) - Takayama, Sekigahara, Kyoto

Après la capitale ainsi que les premières étapes*, le voyage se poursuit depuis les Alpes Japonaises jusqu'aux splendeurs éternelles de Kyoto. Les averses succèdent aux journées ensoleillées, mais nous continuons notre route, cheminant de chaumières en temples, de belles rencontres en découvertes hautes en couleurs !


Takayama / jours 6 et 7
On oublie trop souvent que le Japon est aux trois quarts couvert de montagnes, cause majeure de son surpeuplement urbain. La route de Takayama, riche bourgade marchande sise au débouché du col qui franchit les Alpes Japonaises, mérite d'être parcourue en car. Comme chacun sait, les sujets de Sa Majesté Impériale respectent scrupuleusement les convenances, à plus forte raison lorsqu'ils sont chauffeurs de bus. C'est donc à l'allure poussive mais réglementaire de 40 miles à l'heure que nous gravissons les pentes abruptes aux sommets enneigés. Néanmoins, le spectacle de la nature en vaut la peine. Bien que trop touristique à mon goût, Takayama conserve un incontestable attrait pittoresque, avec ses boutiques serrées les unes contre les autres et ses ponts enjambant le torrent impétueux. Le point d'orgue de notre première journée bien remplie est la visite de la demeure du gouverneur provincial sous l'ère Edo. Cet édifice remarquable permet au visiteur de se figurer pleinement la rigidité protocolaire de l'administration des Tokugawa.



Le lendemain, nous papillonnons entre les échoppes du marché du matin, avant d'entamer l'ascension de la haute colline qui commande la cité, et que coiffait autrefois un « yamashiro », château de montagne. Une fois avalé le pique-nique, nous faisons un détour par une splendide pagode de l'époque Nara, puis découvrons avec bonheur et curiosité le village de montagnards patiemment reconstitué sur les hauteurs de Takayama. Ces fermes sombres recouvertes d'un épais toit de chaume ou de tuiles de bois, au cœur desquelles fume encore le foyer des forestiers de jadis, marquera un moment inoubliable. Une première depuis notre arrivée : nous dînons deux soirs de suite au même endroit, comme il se doit accoudés au comptoir du chaleureux « Origin ».



Sekigahara / jour 8
Tel un pèlerin en terre promise, c'est plein d'émotion que mes pieds foulent le champ de gloire de Sekigahara. J'en ai noirci des pages, captivé des auditeurs du mieux que je le pouvais au sujet de cette bataille décisive livrée en 1600, qui marque à mes yeux le zénith des samouraïs avant leur long crépuscule… Et puis, loin de ces envolées lyriques et des ruches citadines auxquelles on réduit fréquemment l'archipel nippon, Sekigahara nous fournit aussi une belle occasion de parcourir la campagne. Cette fois, le soleil est de la partie. Une veine pour cette jolie balade entre les rizières, à l'ombre des collines où reposent tant de braves. La petite commune n'a guère les moyens de mettre en valeur son patrimoine. Le contraste est ainsi saisissant entre le pauvre musée vétuste, parsemé de mauvaises herbes qui grimpent à l'assaut des cavaliers de plâtre figés dans une charge éternelle, et la splendeur de Kyoto, pourtant distante de quelques dizaines de kilomètres seulement, qui brassent continuellement des milliers de touristes hébétés. Mon cœur se serre un peu à la vue de ces heaumes et armures que la rouille dévore lentement, remisés tels des vieilleries sous les néons blafards.



Nous restons sur le même thème en marquant une étape fugace à Hikone, ville très accueillante au centre de laquelle trône la statue équestre d'Ii Naomasa, presque son fondateur, et l'un des héros de Sekigahara. Nous ne verrons le château, superbe, que de loin, mais je crois pouvoir dire que la mascotte de la cité, une sorte de petit chat blanc portant le célèbre casque écarlate des guerriers du clan Ii, a supplanté celle de Takayama dans le cœur d'Isabelle.

Kyoto / jours 9 à 11
Kyoto : bonjour tristesse ? Pas question ! Foin de la pluie torrentielle que le mauvais vent rabat en sournois traits obliques contre nos sacs à dos, les éléments n'auront pas raison de notre bonne humeur ! Notre périple — pluvieux — à travers l'éblouissant pays des merveilles de Kyoto débute par quelques emplettes au marché du sanctuaire de Kitano Tenmangu. Les foires sur le parvis des lieux saints semblent être ici une véritable institution. Je chine quelques « netsuke », ces petits contrepoids qui pendaient au cordon nouant la bourse à la ceinture, très prisés de nombreux collectionneurs de par le monde. Trempés jusqu'aux os, nous poursuivons avec les ors des somptueux paravents peints par les maîtres de l'école Kano. Ces œuvres si éloignées de nos canons plastiques ornent le palais du château de Nijo, érigé par Tokugawa Ieyasu en plein cœur de la ville de sorte à garder un œil attentif sur la maison impériale, et embelli par les bons soins de son esthète de petit-fils Iemitsu. Le matin, nous avions une première fois ôté nos chaussures gorgées d'eau pour déambuler sur les immenses planchers des temples Nishi-Honganji et surtout du monumental Higashi-Honganji, le plus grand édifice en bois au monde, hélas enserré dans un carcan d'acier pour cause de restauration. Mon dîner se compose d'un hamburger pantagruélique que je me mets en devoir d'engloutir sous les encouragements des charmantes serveuses du fast-food de la gare. Le ventre alourdi, nous reprenons le chemin du luxueux hôtel Rhiga.



Le dimanche est chargé d'un double symbole : outre le fait qu'il marque — déjà — la moitié de notre voyage, Isabelle a la chance de fêter au Japon son vingt-huitième printemps ! Après une tournée hardie d'une bonne part des temples de la cité, du superbe « pavillon d'or » du Kinkaku-ji aux pilotis élancés du Kiyomizudera, en passant par les kyrielles de « Torii » vermillons du sanctuaire d'Inari à Fushimi, nous nous abandonnons par les venelles de Gion, le fameux quartier des plaisirs… Ce soir, geisha et maïko ne se laissent surprendre que dans l'étroite embrasure d'une porte entrouverte, mais la matrone veille au grain. Nous dînons à Pontocho, en nous régalant d'« okonomiyaki », énormes et succulentes galettes de chou caramélisées.



Notre troisième et dernier jour à Kyoto est celui des cadeaux. Sans surprise, je trouve mon bonheur chez Tozando, célèbre boutique dédiée aux arts martiaux et tout spécialement au sabre japonais — merci Olivier ! — tandis qu'Isabelle déniche la perle rare, en forme de kimono, dans la minuscule échoppe d'une adorable vieille dame établie sur le « Chemin de la philosophie ». Ce sentier — invite à la méditation — commence au nord dans les jardins du Ginkaku-ji, le « pavillon d'argent », puis serpente au long d'un joli canal peuplé de carpes ventrues, sous les frondaisons des cerisiers, au pied des collines qui bordent les confins orientaux de la ville. Comblés, nous achevons ce périple spirituel autour de quelques belles brochettes, de viande pour les plus sobres, au poulpe ou au cœur pour les plus téméraires.

Ujisato

* Lire le premier épisode.

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